Travelling without a car – Thailand

I've been on a backpacking trip through northern Thailand with my son over the past few weeks. I absolutely recommend it! Travelling with your son or daughter, or with your father or mother, is a really fantastic opportunity to get to know each other in a completely different way.

You can book a plane ticket cheaply these days, certainly a lot more affordably than when I was 18. Back then, such a trip was unthinkable. All the more enjoyable to do something like that when you're 48.

It gets even better when your son hasn't actually saved enough money to go on such a trip. That means sleeping on bunk beds (with rock-hard mattresses) in cheap hostels, eating cheaply, travelling as cheaply as possible. But all of that is possible in Thailand.

I sympathise with our tenants who don't own a car themselves, but hire one from time to time. You'll think much more carefully about how you want to get around. A list of the choices I made.

I can, of course, rent a car. But yes, in Bangkok, cars drive on the left side of the road. And it’s rather busy there.

I know enough about damage and paying excess. So don't do it then.

You can also take a taxi in Bangkok.

Or the underground.

Or a bus.

Or a tuk-tuk.

Or a boat, as you can see in the video below:

By train to Chiang Mai

We're travelling north on the night train. A journey of about 10 hours. I thought: let's just make sure we're on time at the station. You never know how punctual the Thai railways are. Upon arrival at the station, it was already announced that the train would depart half an hour later. Later, another fifteen minutes were added. And another fifteen minutes. And then another fifteen minutes.

So I have all the time to speak to people. My friend O has never been outside Thailand, but he does know something about Dutch footballers (like most Thais, incidentally).

Almost an hour and a half after the scheduled departure time, we are on our way. And we complain about our NS!

The train dates back to the 70s, I'd guess. It doesn't go fast, I reckon about 50-60 km/h. No wonder we have to drive for 10 hours over 500 km.

When it's bedtime, the sofas are folded out into beds, and neat curtains are hung.

Luckily, I get to sleep on the bottom bunk, as they have a bit more space than the top bunks. There's even a plug socket to charge your phone!

But the journey is absolutely worth it. After a great night's sleep (I'm starting to get used to the rock-hard mattresses), the landscape has changed completely.

Rent scooters in Chiang Mai

Chiang Mai is the second-largest city in Thailand. It is busy, but not as busy as Bangkok. It is located nestled between mountains.

If you want to do something, it's a good idea to rent a few scooters to explore the area. And that's great fun!

As a landlord, I'm naturally curious about how to rent a scooter in Thailand.

Booking is not necessary – there are enough rental companies in one street. A driving license is not asked for, although they are quite fast scooters. Maximum speed around 100 km/h. Strange.

And the damage that's already on it? We've been asked to take a few photos ourselves.

And the fuel, you have to return it at approximately the same level (the tank was empty, naturally).

And then drive off! That's quite an experience. From the hustle and bustle of the city into the mountains. Lots of bends, but excellent roads. A great way to get to know another country like this!

Back to the city. As I just wrote, the landlord does not ask for a driving licence.

But yes, if you drive into a police trap, of course an officer will want to see your driving licence. And I don't have it with me.

Well, that'll be a fine.

Pay directly.

I'm asking what will happen if I'm stopped again. Then I can just show the fine instead of a valid driving licence.

And all for 400 Baht. That's about €10. Bargain!

No delivery vans

Adrem rents out quite a few delivery vans. It surprises me that you hardly see any delivery vans in Thailand. However, there is a huge number of pick-ups. These pick-up trucks are often used to transport people (backpackers), but also goods.

It'll be the weather, I expect. If it hardly ever rains, you don't need to transport your things in a covered van.

By bus to Pai

For a small amount of money, you can take a bus to the town of Pai (in the north). A journey through the mountains with more than 700 bends. Backpacker websites warn of nausea due to the driving style of Thai drivers. But it's not too bad.

Because these minibuses can carry up to 15 people, luggage is tied to the roof. I hope my shoes are still attached to my rucksack when we arrive.

What's particularly striking are the pictograms on the side of the bus. They show what you're not allowed to do.

Hiring bicycles in Pai

My son's travel budget has shrunk considerably. So, we're not hiring scooters anymore (he also got a ticket for riding without a licence), but opting for a mountain bike each instead. It's more fun, and better for your fitness too!

But Pai is also nestled between mountains. So if you want to do something fun (visit waterfalls, hot springs, or Pai Canyon), you'll have to climb. And that's not something I'm used to (anymore).

I promise myself to never complain about the hills in Limburg again. Or about the weather. Cycling in Thailand sometimes leads to near-death experiences. Not only because of the climbing, but also because of the inhuman temperatures. I get a text from home saying it's minus 9 degrees in Maastricht. That means it's 50 degrees warmer here!

Rikscha

Thailand is famous for the many tuk-tuks that drive around there. Besides renting bicycles and scooters, we naturally also make use of them. It's smart to negotiate the fare before the driver races you somewhere – afterwards, you'll have no leg to stand on.